We frequently encounter the Steller SeaLion (Eumetopias jubatus) during our sea kayak outings along the Northwest
coast. The kayak’s exceptional mobility and stealth provides an excellent
opportunity to observe and study their behavior, both in the waters around us,
and occasionally when they hall out to rest on ancient slabs of rock at water’s
edge.
From a secluded harbor we paddled for
several hours, first along a rocky forested coastline, then around the sandy
fringes of an expansive delta, and after a short offshore crossing arrived at
the southeastern end of Benjamin Island.
The much older Tlingit name for the
island Taan X'aat'I (Sea Lion House) seemed more to the point for us, as we
made our camp just inside the tree line. From here our plans included hiking around
to the other side of the island and observing the Sea Lions from the cliffs
above.
It was early spring and the rainforest
undergrowth was just wakening up from winter’s slumber when we arrived. Luckily
steady cold breezes from the ocean worked in our favor and carried our sent
away from the shoreline. Moving quietly we followed game trails along the
parameter of the island that slowly rose in elevation to overhanging cliffs and
rocks on the western side.
We moved forward to the edge of the
rocks slowly in order to not alert the Sea Lions to our presence or otherwise
change their behavior. From our concealment we were able to photograph and
video the colony below undetected. We sat on our perch and observed their interactions,
looking to capture with our cameras moments of social relationships between
individual Sea lions.
When it came to who’s who on the hall
out the biggest bulls had the best situated slabs of rock and plenty of room to
lounge about, they also enjoyed their pick of the females. All other potential
suitors or interlopers will have to fight for the privilege. This battle
hardened champion’s face and neck bore the scars of many such encounters.
Steller Sea Lions together are a
gregarious and rowdy bunch, and their shoving and bellowing created a near
constant ruckus as returning individuals arrived in search of family members
and a spot to relax. Hard to believe that any of them gets much rest, but all
this jostling about no doubt reinforces social bonds and hierarchy within the
group.
For us it was a privilege to visit the
house of the Sea Lion and to observe first hand their remarkable lives on the
island’s rocky shore. Before we left we circled the island in our kayaks making
sure to stay well clear of the hall out (100 yards). At that distance we did
not seem to affect their behavior so we stopped to admire them from a water
level view.
