A crowning jewel in the
Alaskan coastline, a visit to Kenai Fjords National Park had long been overdue
and did not disappoint. Where great mountains and glaciers plunge into the Gulf
of Alaska the surrounding seas can often be storm tossed and violent, but on
this rare day the waters around Cape Aialik calmed and allowed us safe passage.
Kenai Fjords NationalPark had a number of unique geographic and marine features that were of special
interest to us. The park includes the western half of the vast Harding Icefield
and Kenai Mountains along with a narrow fringe of heavily timbered land along
its convoluted coastline.
Investigating our options we found that the coastal section of the Park was easily accessed by a fleet of seaworthy vessels. From the port of Seward Alaska we went out on two different days, the first was to the northwestern section of the Park and the Chiswell Islands and on the second outing we explored the eastern half and Aialik Bay.
The first glacier we encountered was the largest, the Bear Glacier was, up until recent times, a tidewater glacier but is now surrounded and buffered by a freshwater lagoon. The ice berg filled lagoon was created by gravel debris left behind by the retreating glacier and may to some degree help slow the glacier’s further retreat.
Investigating our options we found that the coastal section of the Park was easily accessed by a fleet of seaworthy vessels. From the port of Seward Alaska we went out on two different days, the first was to the northwestern section of the Park and the Chiswell Islands and on the second outing we explored the eastern half and Aialik Bay.
The first glacier we encountered was the largest, the Bear Glacier was, up until recent times, a tidewater glacier but is now surrounded and buffered by a freshwater lagoon. The ice berg filled lagoon was created by gravel debris left behind by the retreating glacier and may to some degree help slow the glacier’s further retreat.
Rock walls and pillars
were the majority of the coastline and it was fascinating to see how the full
force of the Gulf of Alaska shaped and sculpted the Park’s shoreline. As the
tide fell a myriad of intertidal life forms became exposed revealing a complex
intertidal ecosystem that had adapted to the powerful wave shock from the deep
ocean.
We were there in June and
observed plentiful numbers of marine bird populations, like these Common Murre
(Uria aalge), nesting in the rocky crevices of the Chiswell Islands. Other birds
that nest on these islands include Horned Puffins, Black-Legged Kittiwakes, Tufted
Puffins and various auklets such as Cassin's Auklet and the Whiskered Auklet.
Located within the Park
the Chiswell Islands are also part of the Alaska Maritime National WildlifeRefuge that stretches along much of Alaska’s Pacific shoreline. Deep ocean
currents in the summer months rise up along the steep sided coastline and
deliver fish and plankton to the surface which attracts Whales and other marine
mammals such as Seals, Sea Lions and Porpoise. At one point we were surrounded
on all sides by whales, Humpbacks, Orca and a Finn, while circling these outer
islands.
Navigating deeper into the fjords, cascading glaciers inched their way down the sides of the surrounding mountains. The Harding Icefield, vestige of the last ice age ten thousand years ago, was peeking out from behind the clouds. These relatively calmer waters were a relief from the heaving ocean swells for many onboard.
Navigating deeper into the fjords, cascading glaciers inched their way down the sides of the surrounding mountains. The Harding Icefield, vestige of the last ice age ten thousand years ago, was peeking out from behind the clouds. These relatively calmer waters were a relief from the heaving ocean swells for many onboard.
The face of the
Northwestern Glacier, in a number of places, was retreating for the first time
above tideline and our Captain noted that there were far fewer ice burgs to
navigate through on the way in. Historic photos on display at the Park
headquarters in Seward showed that these tidewater glaciers have retreated back
several miles in the past century.
It would make for a
fantastic kayak trip though we noted few beaches or landings sites available to
rest or camp on the outer islands. And though the sea kayak would be our
preference in most places here on these steep sided and unforgiving shores we had
to console ourselves by taking advantage of the vessels greater stability for
photographing wildlife.
Being on a larger vessel
made approaching the Steller Sea Lions (Eumetopias jubatus) hulled out on the
rocks a lot less formidable as well. These
marine titans can run well over a thousand pounds and from firsthand accounts acquired
from local sea kayakers the large bulls on these islands can be quite
territorial and aggressive at times.
“Animals, whom we have
made our slaves, we do not like to consider our equal”. -Charles Darwin